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Chlorine is popular because it handles the three main jobs in keeping a swimming pool clean: It sanitizes (kills bacteria and germs), oxidizes (controls organic debris from perspiration and body oils), and deters algae. The chemical is unpopular because it has a strong odor, reddens eyes, and causes allergic reactions in some swimmers.

There are alternatives to chlorine including bromine, ionizers, and ozonators, though with each you'll still need to use some chlorine. A fourth alternative is PHMB, which doesn't require the use of any chlorine. All four have drawbacks, including cost.

Chlorine is relatively cheap. How much chlorine (http://www.ehow.com/way_5272184_much-chlorine-should-added-pool.html) you'll need depends on the size of your pool, length of the swim season, amount of use, and other factors. For a 20,000-gallon pool that's open year-round, figure you'll spend about $600 annually.

Bromine

What it is: Pool suppliers sometimes suggest bromine as a substitute for chlorine. It can be an acceptable alternative for those with allergic reactions to chlorine, although that's not guaranteed since bromine is also in the same halogen chemical family. Aquatic specialist Alison Osinski believes 5% of the population has an allergy to chlorine.

How it works: Bromine does a fine job as a sanitizer, but it doesn't oxidize as well as chlorine. Most homeowners rely on a hybrid version known as BCDMH tablets that are typically 66% bromine and 27% chlorine to tackle that job. Some people opt for a two-step process of combining bromine salt extracted from seawater with potassium peroxymonosulfate (a.k.a. oxygen shock) in the pool to create that same sanitizing/oxidizing power.

Pros/Cons: Bromine remains stable at high temperatures, which is why many technicians recommend it for spas more than swimming pools. It's less irritating on mucus membranes than its chlorine cousin, although it still produces an odor. And if you use just bromine in the pool (not the BCDMH compound), it leaves the water a dull green color that foams up when you swim in it, because the oxidation process is weaker.

Cost: It's more expensive to operate a pool with bromine. Figure you could spend up to twice as much as you would if you use chlorine only.

Ionizers

What it is: Ionizers rely on two dissimilar metals--often copper (an algaecide) and silver (a sanitizer)--sent charged into the water as the sanitizer. The oxidizer is missing, so you'll need a small amount of chlorine or bromine in the water to handle this cleaning aspect.

How it works: An ionizer is a device that uses a low-voltage DC current to send these two metals into the water. The positive charge attracts bacteria, germs, and algae, and the new, larger compounds they form are carried out in the filtration system.

Pros/Cons: Like bromine, an ionizer doesn't irritate swimmers' eyes and noses. It can substantially reduce the amount of chlorine required. Chlorine and an ionizer work together better than chlorine alone, says Osinski.

Yet, she still considers ionizers a poor choice. For starters, you only reduce the chlorine amount significantly if just a few people use the pool on a regular basis, there are few plants and landscaping in the area, and your air isn't heavily polluted. High dirt levels are beyond what an ionizer can fight on the sanitation side.

Also, ionizers depend on moving water, so you must run the pool pump continuously to keep the sanitizing action in place. And the increased levels of metal in the water can stain the pool and turn swimmers' hair and fingernail beds green.

Cost: About $300 for an ionizer that handles up to 40,000 gallons of water. Homeowners may need to replace the metals in the system as often as once a swimming season, at an average cost of $129. Also factor in the energy cost of running the pool pump around the clock.

Ozonators

What it is: An ozonator is a machine that attaches to the filtration plumbing line. It inserts ozone gas (an active form of oxygen) into the pool to react with impurities in the water.

How it works: There are two types of ozone generators: ultraviolet light and corona discharge. In a UV light system, special low-pressure vapor lamps installed on the water return line create ozone to kill pathogens as they float by. Corona discharge generators rely on an electrical arc to create ozone inside the generator. Again, this ozone kills pathogens in the filtration system.

Pros/Cons: Ozone generators can reduce chlorine usage up to 90%, and they use the same amount of electricity as a 60-watt light bulb when the filter pump is turned on, so the added energy demand is tiny.

Aquatic consultants say ozonators combined with chlorine are extremely effective as long as you circulate the water 24/7. One caveat: Ozonators run best on dry air, so if you live in a humid climate, expect performance to decline.

Cost: A typical ozone generator starts at $600 to handle 7,000 gallons of water; $1,200 to cover 25,000 gallons. Take into account the expense of the pool pump running continuously.

PHMB

What it is: There's only one way to eliminate the use of chlorine completely: Switch your pool to the chemical compound PHMB, short for polyhexamethylene biguanide. Homeowners commonly know PHMB by the Baquacil and SoftSwim brand names.

How it works: PHMB disinfects by penetrating bacteria cell walls, causing them to burst from within. It then wraps those particles in a heavy gel, which sinks to the bottom of the pool, where the vacuum system sucks it up.

Pros/Cons: PHMB doesn't oxidize, so you'll need to use hydrogen peroxide for this. You'll also need to use a separate algaecide and clean pool filters--yes, even the sand ones--every four to six weeks.

PHMB is kinder on swimmers' skin and hair, easy on vinyl pool liners, and doesn't require as much attention as other chemicals to keep in balance. However, because PHMB is incompatible with chlorine, you'll need to first drain the pool.

Once you're back up and running, make sure every bathing suit has been washed. Even traces of chlorine in suit fibers will react with PHMB. The result of the reaction: a yellowish vapor that'll radiate from your bathing suit.

Cost: The cost for PHMB chemicals to maintain a 10,000-gallon pool for a 16-week summer season is about $725.

Julie Sturgeon has written about residential pools for nearly a decade. She has always used chlorine as her sanitizer because it's the path of least resistance.

Homeowners in search of a greener and more economical method of keeping their swimming pools warm are harnessing the sun's energy. Solar pool heaters can lower energy costs because they rely primarily on a free and renewable energy source, rather than electricity or natural gas.

Solar pool heaters cost more upfront than traditional alternatives, perhaps 50% more than electric heat pumps and several times more than gas heaters. However, the payback can come in as little as two years, depending on local utility rates and other factors.

How solar pool heaters works

A typical solar pool heating system (http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13230) centers around large plastic solar collectors installed on the south-facing roof of a house. A pump circulates pool water through the collectors, where it's heated gradually. A return line takes the warm water back to the pool. Professional installation of a system takes about a day.

The setup is similar to a solar-thermal water heater (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/is-solar-thermal-hot-water-for-you/) that's used to heat water for use inside a home. A key difference is the collectors used for solar pool heating are less sophisticated (and cheaper) because water for a pool only needs to rise a few degrees, vs. tens of degrees for indoor use. A typical pump will send all the water in a pool through the collectors twice in 24 hours.

A solar heater typically can raise a pool's temperature by 15 degrees Farenheit. Optimal conditions are subjective, but 80 degrees should be comfortable for most swimmers. Teenagers might be willing to dive in when the temperature is in the 70s, while some people won't dip a toe in the water until it reaches 90 degrees.

How quickly the temperature can rise depends on location. Texans can see a 5-degree increase in a day, while in Alaska it may be less than a degree every 24 hours. Cooler air temperatures, cloudy skies, and fewer daylight hours all affect the performance of solar pool heaters, which require little maintenance and usually last 10 to 20 years.

Cost of solar pool heaters

Solar pool heaters are more popular and cost-effective in sunny states like Florida, Arizona, and California, where the systems have penetrated as much as 60% of the residential market. In the East and Midwest, where sun isn't as plentiful and utility rates are more reasonable, it can take longer to realize the economic benefits.

A typical solar heating system might run between $4,500 and $7,000 installed, depending on pool size, according to manufacturers. Electric heat pumps (http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13200), the most popular alternative, cost $3,500 to $4,500; gas pool heaters (http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13160), the least efficient option, run between $1,000 and $1,500.

Breaking even on a solar pool heater will depend on several factors, especially local utility rates. Manufacturers estimate a typical homeowner will see a return on investment in two to five years vs. a gas heater. The U.S. Department of Energy puts the payback period between 1.7 and seven years.

The federal energy tax credit (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/claim-your-residential-energy-tax-credits/) doesn't apply to solar heating for pools, but some states offer incentives (http://www.dsireusa.org/). For example, Arizona (http://www.azsolarcenter.org/economics/tax-breaks.html) gives tax credits and sales-tax rebates to homeowners who install solar pool heaters.

Roofs can make or break decision

Systems must be sized by a pro. Generally, the surface area of the rooftop collectors should be equal to 85% to 100% of the surface area of your pool. In areas that don't get substantial sunlight, that percentage might climb as high as 150%.

The size and condition of your roof help determine whether a solar pool heater is right for you. Collectors require a lot of square footage on a south-facing roof. The installer will also need to make sure the roof is sound enough to support the collectors. Older roofs may need repairs or replacement, adding to the project cost.

There's also the issue of sun exposure. A solar pool heater doesn't work well on cloudy days or when collectors are blocked by shade. In general, heat pumps can raise water temperatures faster and more reliably than solar heaters, albeit at a higher cost. If budget isn't a concern, you can install a heat pump as a backup.

Solar blankets are a must

To keep heat from escaping, homeowners should use solar pool covers, sometimes called solar blankets (http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13140). Covering a pool with a floating solar blanket when it's not in use not only keeps heat from escaping, but also adds another 5 degrees to the water temperature. As well, solar blankets reduce evaporation, which lowers the amount of replacement water and chemicals needed.

The cost of solar blankets varies depending on size and quality, but figure a good-quality blanket that's 12 feet by 24 feet will run about $100. The blanket can be spread over the pool surface (and removed) by hand, or plan to spend at least a couple of hundred dollars more on a reel system.

A solar blanket pays for itself. Even in balmy Miami, it can cost $2,848 a year (http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13180) to heat an uncovered 1,000-square-foot outdoor pool to 80 degrees using an 80% efficient gas heater. The cost is $1,460 (http://www.energysavers.gov/your_home/water_heating/index.cfm/mytopic=13220) when an electric heat pump is used instead. But in conjunction with a solar blanket, those annual costs plummet to $584 and $300, respectively.

Julie Sturgeon has written about residential pools for nearly a decade. She can't take advantage of solar heating because her roof is shaded on all sides.

Hot tubs and spas come in an array of shapes and sizes, and can be equipped with scores of accessories. Accordingly, they have a wide range of prices. Choosing the right spa depends on its intended use, how big your deck is, and what structural alterations will be required for your deck. In addition, you'll need to know the cost of installation, day-to-day expenses, and how much you can expect to recoup on your investment should you sell your home.

Different types of spas and their costs

It started with that icon of laid-back living, the redwood hot tub. Before long, fiberglass versions with circulating jets appeared called "spas." Today the terms "hot tub" and "spa" are used interchangeably, but because most units are jetted, spa is the term more commonly used. Spas range in size from two-person models costing about $2,000, to 20-foot-long swim spas costing $18,000 or more. In between are those most popular for decks: 4- to 8-person models costing from $2,500 to $10,000.

Choosing a spa can be challenging. You'll need to select from a dazzling number of accessories, including cup holders, colored LED lights, iPod docks, stereo systems, pop-up TV screens, and even waterproof keyboards.

"The gadgetry is there to catch your eye while shopping," cautions Erich Johanson, an experienced spa installer in Olympia, Wash. He recommends choosing established manufacturers and narrowing your choice from there. "Look at the national brands and find one you like," he says. "Then chose a model that has the features you want."

His top recommendation is for "full-foam" insulation-a high-density, closed-cell polyurethane foam that fills the cavity between the fiberglass tub shell and the outer cabinet and helps reduce heat loss. In addition, full-foam insulation helps reduce noise and adds stability to the entire unit.

Check installation costs as well. They'll be dependent on the size of the spa and the ease of getting it where it needs to be. In some cases, limited access may require the use of a crane to lower the spa into place. For an 8-person spa, expect about $300 for delivery and setup.

Adding structural components to carry the weight

The safest-and most cost-effective-location for a spa is the lower level of a deck. A deck only a few steps above ground, if built to code, should be able to support 100 lbs per sq. ft.-a filled 8 x 8 spa at 6,000 lbs. works out to about 94 lbs per sq. ft., just within limits. Check your local codes for any restrictions governing the installation of a spa on a deck.

Even better is a reinforced concrete pad, a great option if you're planning a new deck or intend to add on to an existing deck. A 4-inch slab will safely bear 115 lbs per sq. ft.

If you want the tub on a deck more than a couple of feet above ground or on an upper level of a deck, things get more complicated. You'll need to hire a structural engineer to provide specs for a site-specific framing structure to support the weight. Expect to pay an engineer $300 to $500 for these services. The necessary framing for a typical backyard deck may cost only a few hundred dollars, but expect to pay much more if your deck is a high-flying structure perched on a slope.

Accessing power and water

Spas require a nearby source of electricity. Because water is involved, any electrical hookup for a spa must include ground-fault circuit interrupter (GFCI) protection. This nifty device shuts down the system within milliseconds if it detects the tiniest change in current flow caused by a short circuit. Some spas come with an extension cord with a GFCI built in that can be plugged into a 110-volt, 20-amp circuit.

Larger units require at least one dedicated 220-volt, 50-amp circuit. In addition, there must be an emergency shutoff within sight of the spa, but not closer than 5 feet or farther than 50 feet. A new circuit and shutoff will cost about $800.

Water access is simple; spas fill with an outdoor hose. The spa then heats and circulates the water. Insulated tub covers limit evaporation, but the tub will need occasional topping off. When it's time to empty the unit, all spas have built-in hose bibs so you can drain the water.

Safety

Getting in and out of a spa provides opportunities for mishaps. A handrail is a good idea for older-and younger-users. A cover with a lock is must if you have children (http://www.hottubliving.com/safety.aspx).

If you plan to build your spa into the deck, it may seem best to drop it into the deck so that the rim of the tub sits on the decking. Unfortunately, this makes it easy for people to fall in or step on the cover, and also complicates getting into the tub. The ideal arrangement is to set the spa partially into the deck so the rim is 17 to 24 inches above the decking. That way, bathers can sit on the rim, swing their feet over, and enter the water.

Hot water feels great, but needs to be indulged with caution. The Association of Pool & Spa Professionals (http://www.apsp.org/default.aspx) recommends keeping the water temperature between 100°F and 102°F, with 104°F as a maximum. A safe soaking duration is 15 minutes. To keep the spa free of bacteria, you must be clean it regularly and add sanitizing chemicals.

Anticipating the cost and value of a spa

It costs as little 50¢ a day to run a spa. That amount can vary according to the amount of use, your local energy costs, the quality of insulation in your spa, and the quality of the cover. Covers typically come with spas, but consider upgrading to a higher efficiency type. The additional cost is modest and the better-insulated covers are often lighter, making them easier to remove.

If you live in a region with a climate moderate enough for year-round use, a deck equipped with a spa should give you a slight edge in selling a home. John Tripp, an appraiser with Foundation Trust in San Jose, Calif., says that spas "normally are assets as long as they have been properly maintained and there is no evidence of leakage or deferred maintenance."

In other areas of the country, don't expect much of a return. "They don't have the payback to meet the cost," says Richard Koestner, an appraiser with Koestner, McGiven & Associates in Davenport, Iowa. "If they do add any value it would be in the upper price range. It could be detriment if they aren't in the right market."

People react differently to the prospect of purchasing a house that has a spa. Some buyers may ask that it be removed as a condition of sale. Others will hardly be able to wait for that first soothing soak.

Dave Toht has written or edited more than 60 books on home repair and remodeling, including titles for The Home Depot, Lowe's, Better Homes & Gardens, Sunset, and Reader's Digest. A former contractor, Dave was editor of Remodeling Ideas magazine and continues to contribute to numerous how-to publications.

The decision to build an in-ground pool isn't one to take lightly. Apart from the substantial installation costs, which typically run into the tens of thousands of dollars, you have to factor in ongoing maintenance expenses as well as insurance and tax implications. And you can't be assured of recouping your investment when you sell; while a pool may be attractive to some buyers, others might be put off by the upkeep or safety concerns.

If you're looking for bang for your buck at resale, an upscale kitchen or extra bathroom offers greater impact. But if you want the ultimate backyard entertainment amenity and social gathering spot, nothing fills the bill like a swimming pool. Thinking about taking the plunge? Here's a look at how the numbers add up.

Ballpark your installation costs

The average cost in the U.S. to install, equip, and fill a 600-square-foot concrete pool starts at $30,000. Add in aesthetic details like waterfalls, lighting, landscaping, and perhaps a spa (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/what_to_consider_before_building_spa/), and you're easily looking at totals approaching six figures.

Concrete is the most expensive pool material, but it's also the most durable and offers the most options for customization. Fiberglass shells and those with vinyl liners fall on the lower end of the budget scale, but the liners typically need replacing every 10 or so years. Changing the liner requires draining the pool and replacing the edging (called coping), so over time costs add up. Most home buyers will insist that you replace a vinyl liner, even if it's only a few years old.

Decide on a filtration and heating system

The filtration pump is the biggest energy hog in a pool system, so you want to get the most efficient pump possible. The good news here is that new, variable-speed pumps use up to 80% less energy than old single-speed pumps, cutting operating expenses dramatically. At about $1,500, these cost more up front, but some local utilities offer rebates through participating pool dealers. You can further cut energy costs by setting the pump to run at non-peak times, when rates for electricity are lower.

If you're planning to heat your pool, gas heaters are the least expensive to purchase and install, but they typically have the highest operation and maintenance costs. Many pool owners opt instead for electric heat pumps, which extract heat from the surrounding air and transfer it to the water. Heat pumps take longer than gas to warm the pool, but they're more energy-efficient, costing $200 to $400 less to operate per swimming season. Regardless of heating system, covering the pool with a solar blanket to trap heat and reduce evaporation will further lower operating costs.

Account for ongoing maintenance expenses

All pools require that the water be balanced for proper pH, alkalinity, and calcium levels. They also need sanitizing to control bacteria and germs, which is where chlorine has traditionally entered the picture. These days you have a variety of options, including systems that use bromine, salt, ozone, ionizers, or other chemical compounds that can be less irritating to skin. Chlorine remains the most popular because the upfront costs are reasonable, and you don't have to be as rigid about checking the levels on a set schedule. But as far as your wallet is concerned, they all even out in the end.

In a seasonal swimming climate, budget about $600 annually for maintenance if you shoulder the chemical balancing and cleaning yourself; in a year-round climate, it's more like $15 to $25 per week. To save yourself the task of once-a-week vacuuming, you can buy a robotic cleaning system for between $500 and $800 that will do the job for you. In locations where the pool must be opened and closed for the season, add another $500 each time for a pro to handle this task.

Factor in insurance and tax implications

A basic homeowners insurance policy (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/homeowners-insurance-time-for-annual-check-up/) typically covers a pool structure without requiring a separate rider, but you should increase your liability from the standard amount. It costs about $30 a year to bump coverage from $100,000 to $500,000. Many underwriters require you to fence in the pool so that children can't wander in unsupervised.

In some areas, adding a pool may increase your annual property taxes, but it won't necessarily add to your home's selling price. For that reason, try to keep your total building cost between 10% and 15% of what you paid for your house, lest you invest too much in an amenity that won't pay you back.

Julie Sturgeon has written about residential pools for nearly a decade. Her family was clueless when they bought a home with an in-ground pool, but they have avoided making a major mistake with it yet.

In-ground or above-ground? That's the first question facing homeowners who want to add the ultimate backyard amenity of a swimming pool. Although an in-ground pool (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/what_to_consider_before_building_pool/) wins on aesthetics, an above-ground pool has other attractions, chiefly cost. At around $6,000 for a basic model versus $30,000 for in-ground, you'll spend 80% less, and you avoid the disruption of heavy equipment digging up your backyard.

Of course, that's just a starting point. if you select upgrades like patterned or textured liners, fancy stairs, and custom decking, you could be looking at a price tag of $15,000 or more. At that point, it makes sense to consider an in-ground investment, which you may be able to list as a selling amenity someday.

Ring pools: the least expensive option

Above-ground pools come in two basic types: ring and frame. Ring pools, also known as "float to fill," are commonly around 12 feet in diameter and 3 feet high. Made of heavy-duty vinyl, they get their name from an inflatable ring at the top of the pool, which rises as the pool fills with water and lifts the sidewalls into place. The filled pool is flask-shaped, wider at the bottom than the top for greater stability.

A 12-foot ring pool holds approximately 1,400 gallons of water, enough to require chlorine tablets (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/swimming-pools-alternatives-chlorine/) for chemical balance and a filtration pump. You can buy one for these for around $300, load it into the back of the SUV, and get it ready for filling the same day. Many families see this as an inexpensive way to test the waters on pool ownership and maintenance.

Frame pools: more costly and more permanent

A frame pool has a sturdy metal frame and an interior pool liner. One of these can stay up year-round, although it can be disassembled in a matter of hours. They come in a variety of shapes and sizes; the most popular size is a 24-foot round, which gives plenty of room for laps or a rowdy game of water polo. Most frame pools come with a lifetime warranty that translates into 25 to 30 years of practical use, even with kids pushing off the sides and jumping off the deck area.

The typical frame pool has walls that are 48 inches to 54 inches high, which means you'll need a ladder to get in and out. Depending on the size and shape of your yard, installers may be able to bury one end of the steel framework deeper in the ground to create different water levels, but even with this trick, 6.5 feet is the depth limit. Once the pool is set up, you can add decking or landscaping to make it look like a more permanent feature of the yard.

A bare-bones frame pool costs around $4,000, and as much as double that if you add niceties like a high-end patterned liner or a wood frame to blend in better with the landscape. As with a ring pool, you use the backyard hose to fill these with the requisite 3,000 to 6,000 gallons.

Depending on size, plan on two to five days for installation, which includes leveling the site and laying a sand bed. The best time to get on a dealer's installation list is in the winter or early spring. The impulse-buying nature of an above-ground pool means dealers can be backed up several weeks once summer turns hot.

Maintenance and safety issues

Above-ground frame pools need many of the same working parts as inground versions, such as filters and automatic pool cleaners. They can definitely support a heater, although to keep costs proportionate, many people just spread a solar blanket (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/solar-pool-heaters-can-lower-energy-costs/) over the pool when not in use. It's also possible to hook up automatic cleaners on the circulation line to avoid manually cleaning the sides.

Chemicals are required, but in smaller quantities. Plan on spending an average of $400 a season on chlorine, compared with $600 for an inground pool. Homeowners also need to be aware of local safety ordinances and erect the appropriate fencing. In many jurisdictions, fencing can be attached to the top of the pool itself instead of around the perimeter of the yard.

Because it isn't permanent, an above-ground pool doesn't require a permit, and it won't impact the resale value of your home. Note that some homeowners associations (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/hoas-what-you-need-to-know-about-rules/) or developers don't allow them, and they're not suited for diving. It's always a good idea to notify your insurance agent that you've added an above-ground pool, as coverage policies vary.

Julie Sturgeon has written about residential pools for nearly a decade. She owns an inground pool because that's what came with the house.

Even if you don't live in a dry climate, fresh water may be an increasingly scarce and expensive commodity. One way to conserve water is to design a landscape plan that cuts down on the need for irrigation. According to the Environmental Protection Agency, converting to a water-efficient landscape can reduce your outdoor water use by 20% to 50%, or as much as 10,000 gallons a year. That saves money, too, shaving between $30 and $70 off the average annual household water bill.

Often called xeriscaping or drought-tolerant landscaping, low-water landscaping also makes yard maintenance easier. Here are 10 strategies that will save water and still let you enjoy a beautiful, healthy garden.

1. Choose native plants

Plants that originated in a particular part of the country have had eons to get used to that area's normal rainfall, soil, and climate. That means they require less maintenance and little or no watering once established. Your local cooperative extension or botanic garden is a good place to start a native plant search. Sites like eNature.com (http://www.enature.com/native_invasive/) or H2ouse (http://www.h2ouse.org/gardensoft/garden_types.aspx?listType=tours) can help you find the best species for your location. Portland-based PlantNative (http://www.plantnative.org/) has a handy database of nurseries nationwide that specialize in native plants. Note: Just because you see a plant in your neighbor's yard doesn't meant it's a native.

2. Skip the supersizing

"Pick plants that grow only to the size you want them," advises Margaret Grace, principal of Grace Design Associates (http://www.gracedesignassociates.com) in Santa Barbara, Calif. "If you need five-foot-high screening between you and a neighbor, don't put in something that grows nine feet high. You'll have to chop it back all the time." That's a huge waste of water, not to mention extra work.

3. Mulch to reduce evaporation

Putting two or three inches of mulch on top of the soil around your plants is a great way to reduce water loss. Mulch also cuts down on water-stealing weeds. The best mulch options are natural ones like compost, bark chips, and pine needles. These organic mulches gradually break down and add nutrients to the soil. Inorganic materials like rocks and pebbles are a more permanent option, although in some climates they can hold too much heat. A quick tip: Don't pile mulch up in huge cones against a plant's stem or it will trap too much moisture, which leads to fungus and rot.

4. Make paths porous

Paths made of pebbles, gravel, or non-mortared concrete pavers or brick allow water to percolate down to your plants' roots instead of running off into a storm drain. No mortar does mean more room for weeds to grow, though.

5. Lose the lawn

The average American family uses more than 20,000 gallons a year watering the lawn. If you need grass for a play area or just like to feel the blades between your toes, you can still cut water use by replacing some of that conventional grass with varieties that need less water. Bermuda or buffalo grass can use 20% less water than fescue or bluegrass, according to the University of California Cooperative Extension (http://ucce.ucdavis.edu/datastore/datastoreview/showpage.cfm?usernumber=21&surveynumber=462). Keep it long, too. Raising your mower blade to three inches helps shade grass roots so they lose less water through evaporation.

6. Put thirsty plants together

Grouping plants with the same water needs means you don't waste water where it's not necessary. Create a "mini-oasis" near the house, where thirsty plants can benefit from roof runoff. Farther out, make a "transition zone" for plants that need supplemental drip irrigation (http://www.houselogic.com/articles/water-saving-irrigation-strategies/). Farther still is a "natural zone" for native plants that can survive on rainfall alone.

7. Plant and water when it's cool

New plants and transplants need far less water if you put them in the ground in early fall or early spring, when it's cooler. Similarly, water in the morning so you'll lose less to evaporation in the heat of the day.

8. Do donuts

Trees and shrubs need extra water the first couple of years to help their roots take hold. An efficient way to keep them moist is to mound several inches of soil into a donut-shaped berm out about as far as the branches reach. Use a hose or bucket to fill the donut dam to the top. Water will absorb slowly instead of running off. Another option: Attach a $25 - $30 drip irrigator bag to the tree.

9. Follow the sun

Use dry-soil plants in sunny areas, and plants that require more water in shady areas where evaporation is slower.

10. Create the illusion of water

Yes, you can have a water feature in a low-water garden. In fact, a small pond or fountain with a recirculating pump uses very little water. Pumps start as low as $10. Bonus: Water features attract birds and butterflies.

Laura Fisher Kaiser is a contributing editor to Interior Design magazine and a former editor at This Old House Magazine.

Why pay to pour thousands of gallons of municipally treated tap water on your lawn and garden every summer if you can irrigate for free? That's the thinking behind the growing interest in rain barrels, which let you conserve water, protect the environment, and save money at the same time.

Considering that an inch of rain dumps 500 gallons on the roof of a typical 2,000-square-foot house, it's possible in most parts of the country to collect more than enough runoff for basic landscape irrigation needs. A rain barrel will save about 1,300 gallons of water during the peak summer months, according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency (http://www.epa.gov).

In a national survey by DC Urban Gardeners (http://www.dc-urban-gardener-news.com/rain-barrel-roundup-the-s.html), a rain barrel lowered water bills by about $35 a month in the summer. For as little as $100 for the barrel and downspout fittings, a rain-harvesting system can pay for itself in just a couple of seasons.

How much rain can you collect?

The first step is to figure out the potential runoff amount from your roof. Multiply your area's average annual rainfall (http://www.nationalatlas.gov/printable/precipitation.html#list) in inches by the square footage of your roof. If you don't know exact roof area, it's fine to use the dimensions of your house's footprint. Then multiply that number by 0.623--the amount of water in gallons needed to fill one square foot of space to a depth of one inch. The result is the number of gallons you can harvest. (Keep in mind, though, that most rain barrel systems are set up to collect only a portion of that, depending on irrigation needs.)

If your main goal is to water flower beds or run soaker hoses during dry spells, one or two 55-gallon barrels will suffice. If you want to turn off the garden tap all together, you'll need multiple barrels or a cistern, a large tank that stores from 300 to 3,000 gallons. But cisterns cost considerably more (up to $2,500) and are more complicated to install and use, which makes them best suited for larger-scale rain harvesting systems that include such indoor uses as flushing toilets.

The cost to set up a rain barrel system

Commercial barrels cost between $50 and $200, though you can also make one yourself from castoff food-grade containers. One couple linked together five 55-gallon syrup drums they bought for $10 apiece from the local Coca-Cola bottling plant. Their blog (http://futurehousefarm.blogspot.com/search/label/rain%20harvester) is an amusing and instructive rain-harvesting primer.

A typical system consisting of one or two barrels and off-the-shelf parts such as spigots, downspout extensions, mesh screens, and soaker hoses costs between $35 and $600. Cobbling it all together might take a weekend or two, but it's not rocket science. The Maryland Environmental Design Program (http://www.dnr.state.md.us/ed/rainbarrel.html) offers easy step-by-step instructions for building your own barrel with about $15 worth of supplies.

Unfortunately, most rain barrels are not very handsome, and it's not always easy to camouflage them. Some people like the folksy wooden water barrel look, but generally speaking, the more water you're trying to capture, the bulkier the containers--and the harder they are to make inconspicuous or tuck behind bushes, especially since they need to be located near a downspout on your house.

Safety requirements and caveats

Rain barrels work via gravity, so the barrel must be level, stable, and elevated to allow water to move out of the tank. You'll want two spigots, one at the bottom to connect a hose and the other about two-thirds of the way down to fit a watering can or bucket underneath. If you want to move water to a higher level, you'll have to add a small pump ($50 to $150, depending on type).

You'll also need to take a few other precautions for safety:

Covers and screens: A secure cover keeps children, pets, and wildlife out. Fine mesh screens prevent mosquitoes from breeding (a mosquito dunk, which kills mosquito larvae but is non-toxic to plants or other animals, is also not a bad idea) and block leaves and twigs from clogging the works.

Organic growth: Water that sits for days or weeks, especially in hot weather, can start to grow algae. Try adding a capful or two of bleach to the tank and letting it stand for a few days before using. If that doesn't work, you may have to drain and scrub the inside periodically.

Overflow: A 55-gallon barrel (or even two) will quickly fill up, especially during intense downpours. An overflow system that diverts water to a storm drain or into a moisture-tolerant part of the garden is essential.

Restricted uses: Although good for plants and perfectly fine for washing cars or garden tools, water that comes off the roof is far from pure. It may be contaminated with dust, insects, bird droppings, pine needles, pollen, and other pollutants. Be sure to clearly label all rainwater-supplied fixtures as "Non-potable--Do Not Drink." Nor is it safe to mix fertilizer or garden chemicals in the barrel, even for garden use.

Benefits that go beyond saving money

Collecting rainwater has numerous benefits apart from low-cost irrigation. Free of chlorine and sodium, naturally soft rainwater is superior for plants. Capturing roof runoff also lowers the risk of flooding and reduces the burden on storm sewers and local watersheds.

That's one reason why a number of local and state governments are offering tax breaks or rebates for rainwater harvesting systems. A few, such as Washington, D.C. (http://www.green.dc.gov), San Antonio, Texas (http://www.saws.org/conservation/programs/homeaudit.shtml), and San Jose, California (http://www.sjwater.com/conservation/audit.jsp), will even conduct a rainwater audit of your property, make recommendations, and implement rain barrels or other storm-water runoff strategies at a subsidized rate.

Laura Fisher Kaiser is a contributing editor to Interior Design magazine and a former editor at This Old House Magazine. The secret to her Washington, D.C., garden is blood, sweat, tears, and mosquito repellent.

Almost one-third of the water your family uses-some 100 gallons a day on average-ends up on your yard and garden, according to the Environmental Protection Agency. Nationwide, more than 7 billion gallons a day go to landscape irrigation. If that weren't problem enough, as much as half that water is wasted. It falls on sidewalks or evaporates into the air before it ever reaches the ground. With a few simple changes to the way you water, you can save a precious resource and lower your bills at the same time. To remember the steps to take, just use our handy acronym: DIRTS, which stands for drip irrigation, recapture, timers, and sensors.

Drip irrigation sends water only where you need it

Drip irrigation systems can be a great way to save because they put water only where you want it. Unlike a soaker hose, which emits water all along its length, a drip system delivers water directly to plants' roots, which cuts down on waste and also reduces weeds.

A drip system is basically a long, thin plastic tube sitting on the ground or, less often, buried right below the surface. Small fittings, called emitters, release water at rates of one-half to four gallons an hour. The tubing is attached to your outside faucet with a valve. You can turn on the drip manually or put it on a timer. Some systems also let you adjust the water flow, which can help prevent overwatering.

Installing a drip system is pretty easy. Attach the valve, run the tubing, and insert the emitters where you want water. The number of emitters you need depends on what you're watering. A 10-foot tree that soaks up 60 gallons of water a week might need several emitters, while a small plant that only requires a couple of gallons would need just one.

A new drip system will cost about anywhere from $50 for about 20 plants to $200 or more for a whole yard. You can also convert your existing in-ground sprinkler system. Companies like RainBird make adapters that let you replace sprinkler heads with connectors for drip tubing. Going from sprinklers to drip irrigation can cut lawn water use by up to 50%, saving you about $70 off the average annual household water bill of $475.

Recapturing rainwater lets you irrigate for free

Plants love the purity of rainwater, and you can't beat the price. One inch of rain on a 1,000-square-foot roof provides 600 gallons of runoff. Depending on your local rainfall (http://maps.howstuffworks.com/united-states-annual-rainfall-map.htm), that could be enough to water your plants all summer.

All you need to harvest rainwater is a simple plastic or wooden drum with a spigot near the bottom where you can attach your hose. A 60-gallon model will set you back $75 to $150.

Just put the barrel underneath a downspout to catch rainwater coming off the roof. You'll need to attach a flexible elbow to the downspout so it feeds into the barrel. In areas of heavy rainfall, you can expand your storage capacity with $10 connectors that let water flow from one barrel to another.

A few cautions. Roofs made of asbestos shingles, treated cedar shakes, or old tar and gravel aren't good candidates for rainwater collection because the runoff may contain high levels of contaminants. To keep debris out and pests away, especially mosquitoes, cover your barrel with a fine mesh screen or lid. If you have kids, clamp the lid down to keep them from falling in.

Timers and sensors keep water waste to a minimum

Whatever watering system you choose, putting a timer on it will make your watering more efficient. Plus, if you live in a drought-prone area where watering schedules are restricted, a timer can keep you from getting a ticket.

Timer kits range from simple $20 dial models that screw onto the faucet and let you set on and off times manually to electronic controllers that let you program multiple on-off times and different watering schedules for different days of the week. If you want to track your water use, you can add a garden water meter for less than $10.

For even greater water savings, you need a sensor ($20-$30) that adjusts the water flow depending on how much rain you've had. These sensors measure either actual rainfall or the moisture in the soil, then automatically subtract that amount from the next watering cycle. Savings can be significant: A University of Florida study (http://www.eng.ufl.edu/newsroom/articles/detail_articles.php?id=528) showed that soil moisture monitors can cut water use by more than 50%.

You can even give your water monitoring a high-tech spin with an ET (evapotranspiration) controller. These "smart" controllers use real-time satellite weather data to make watering adjustments. They can also be programmed to adjust for soil type, weather conditions, and slope. Installation requires a professional, but savings can be 20% to 40%, according to the Irrigation Association (http://www.irrigation.org). Many water agencies in the West give rebates to customers who install "smart" systems; in southern California, installing an ET controller qualifies you for a $200 rebate.

Laura Fisher Kaiser is a contributing editor to Interior Design magazine and a former editor at This Old House Magazine. The secret to her Washington, D.C., garden is blood, sweat, tears, and mosquito repellent.